Croatian Observations

So, in my rush to sort out my life and my journey to Bulgaria, I forgot to include a bit of commentary on culture and politics in Croatia.

Observations:
1. Don’t talk about the war….unless you have a great deal of time and patience. We had brief discussions with a couple of our homestay hosts at one point, but their comments were fairly limited and the memories appeared painful. Our Dubrovnik host remarked – “we tell the tourists not to go into the hills because there are many snakes. There are not snakes.”
There are landmines. He described how the Serbs had attacked from that hill, blowing the neighborhood to bits while some 90 people huddled in his basement. He was very distant and a bit standoffish, so we ended the conversation. Later, while walking in the street in Croatia, I noticed a hub-bub nearby and I asked a nearby police officer about the commotion. He answered cordially that some VIPs were attending a concert. A middle-aged bystander chimed in: ‘not for tourists!’’

He was a little curt about it, which I didn’t appreciate, so I responded, “well of course…I was only curious.” I don’t remember how this conversation transformed into a confrontational discussion about limited western involvement in the war, but I do remember having eyes the size of dinner plates and flaming pink cheeks. Croatians are very, very bitter. He accused us of ignoring the atrocities committed, because we believe (apparently) that Croatia doesn’t matter to us or to the rest of Europe. I replied, “well, I am sorry, but I was only about six years old.”

His tone softened a little – only a little – and I used my irresistible wit and charm (ha) to wear him into affability. I remarked that I certainly would have done something if I were not in primary school – to which he was a bit skeptical – and that I was hoping to work against such atrocities in the future. In the end, he seemed convinced and we even had him smiling and shaking our hands.

I let out a tremendous sigh of relief as we walked away. Don’t talk about the war…unless you have a great deal of time and patience! We should have ignored him, but I was just too damn determined to break through that bitterness. Mission accomplished? Well, for now. I suppose it must be frustrating to see the droves of indifferent Western tourists stomping all over your city.

2. There are no Dalmatian dogs in Dalmatia. At least, I didn’t see any. Many people had dogs of every other persuasion, and they enjoyed flaunting them in public. Leash laws are seemingly non-existent.

3. Park anywhere, please. On the sidewalks, on the medians, in the grass. In fact, be sure to block in everyone else as you wedge your vehicle into the last remaining three inches of space.

4. If you’re just married, you’ll join your friends and family in a long, loudly honking car procession through town. If you’re having a really good time, your friends and family will hang out the window, perhaps waving bottles of champagne. If you’re dead, on the other hand, your picture and short biography will be plastered all over town, so that everyone may know you’ve passed.

5. Pizza…pasta…pasta…pizza…*sigh.* The gastronomic options can be tiring. The seafood, on the other hand, is quite delicious…though sometimes surprisingly expensive.

6. Fruit and vegetables do taste better without scientific tinkering and pesticides!

7. Croatians appear to be avid gardeners. Virtually every home boasted flourishing rose bushes, fruit trees and grape vines. Having the blackest thumb known to man, I was very impressed by the seemingly effortless cultivation of even the smallest plots of land. I kill plants just by looking at them.

I look forward to returning someday to explore several of the more remote towns and villages. It will be fascinating to observe the drastic changes Croatia experiences in the next ten years – though I hope it never loses its irresistible charm and breathtaking natural beauty.