Bizarre Bulgaria

I was purely lucky to find an apartment – my previous arrangements had been thwarted at the very last minute, and I was utterly desperate to find something, ANYTHING as soon as possible. During a random web search, I found an old posting for a room in a three bedroom flat just outside the city center. After a few emails, I had somewhere to live! I did a celebratory “whoo hoo!!” in the internet café when I received the confirmation email.

My roommates are friendly and fascinating – one is an Austrian who works as a university professor in another town for half the week, the other is a Bulgarian international lawyer working on behalf of the Bulgarian disabled. Both are approximately ten years my senior (from what I can tell) and very intellectual. My room in the apartment is about twice what it was in Africa (thank heaven) and painted a cheerful light yellow. All three of us sleep on comfortable air mattresses. We have hot water, and there is a constant electricity and water supply…ie, no rations! I’ve decided that I like this situation very much.

I’ll not feign immediate contentment – my first couple of days in Bulgaria were extremely difficult. Everything is in the Cyrillic alphabet: the street signs, the menus, the business names…everything. The language itself is guttural and alien, and my meagre attempts are seemingly futile. The layout of the city lacks the logic of Tulsa, Oklahoma (of course), the taxi drivers usually need directions, virtually no one speaks English, and I am completely on my own about 95% of the time. I can’t tell north from south and up from down most of the time – asking for directions is usually a recipe for supreme confusion for all those involved.

To my astonishment, the head gestures really are reversed – a shake of the head (to Americans meaning ‘no’) actually means “yes”, and a nod (to us meaning “yes”) actually means “no.” Except of course, for those Bulgarians who consider themselves more Western – they do things “our” way…which leads to a whole bunch of befuddlement. Yes? No? Da? Ne? Shake? Nod? What’s going on!?

I was also planning on entitling this entry “Brrrgaria” (I know, how clever) – because the constant downpour was accompanied by 40 degree temperatures. I was certainly not prepared for the cold and wet…I spent my very first day solidly cursing the weather, the language, the lack of internet cafes and my unfortunate aptitude for getting hopelessly lost.

BUT….there is light at the end of the tunnel and the sun came out – (but not before I bought a $6 coat and $3 jeans from a street market). I learned how to successfully point and grunt when ordering food, how to somewhat successfully ask locals for help, and how to make it home at the end of the day (well, for the most part). I am learning the Cyrillic alphabet somewhat quickly – mostly because my livelihood demands it. There is nothing like complete and total cultural immersion to encourage a little learning.

The public transportation system is mostly hopeless – my first attempt resulted in two old ladies adopting me and dragging me from tram to tram, wordlessly pointing and smiling in the fairly correct direction. The only thing I could say was “Ekzarh Yosif!”, the name of the street where Animus is located. I arrived, eventually. The locals are genuine and friendly, and I think that is the greatest strength of the country.

It’s the most difficult culture shock I’ve yet to endure – this place is just so different than any I’ve encountered, and I’ve never had to be so completely self reliant – (which is difficult, but good, I’d say.) My flatmates are exceedingly busy and not available to hold my hand - though they are both fascinating to talk to in the evenings.

So, why is Bulgaria bizarre? Well….I’ll just write a few things to qualify this adjective:

1. The country is mostly run by the mafia. You know, like the kind you see on the Sopranos? I laughed at them when I heard the details – but it is totally true. You can see the fancy cars and the henchmen. They are of little danger to the everyday Bulgarian local – but they have their hands in every market, every government ministry, everything. It’s just a part of life…no big deal. What?! The mafia!?
2. The fashion sense is horrifying – lime green sweatsuits, mullet haircuts, terrible makeup, the shortest skirts imaginable at any age… you think it’s not a big deal, but it’s everywhere!
3. The population has a serious inferiority complex – most people believe the country is backwards, pathetic and virtually unknown. In my opinion, having just joined the EU and such, the only way is up. Half the population wants communism back – the other half are itching to immigrate to Western Europe – this place has so much untapped potential, it boggles my mind. On the other hand, Bulgarians are fiercely proud of their past…their Byzantine, Thracian past that is.
4. The taxi drivers have a strangely unified penchant for the rap artist 50 Cent
5. Just imagine – an abandoned hearse with a huge silver cross growing out of the roof. Not a big deal? Just imagine there’s still a casket inside. Bizarre.
6. The situation with the Roma (Gypsies) can be likened to 1960’s USA or to apartheid Africa. The discrimination is so extreme – it’s completely mind boggling. No one is doing anything about it, and it’s taboo to even mention that there’s a problem. I’ve been told repeatedly to watch my purse or “the thieving gypsies will steal it”, there is severe discrimination within the job market, education, everything. There’s not even an organization to fight for equal rights – it’s just accepted.

Anyway, it is nearly time for me to return home – my start at Animus has been slow on account of my internship manager not arriving until tomorrow. I am become accustomed to life here, and I will write more details about Animus and my work very shortly. Keep the emails coming, it is wonderful to hear from all of you!